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When the boat c=
omes
in…
We’ve just taken delivery of
sauvignon blanc and merlot from Rayun in Chile’s Central Valley. These wines
are superb everyday drinking at just $19.50/bottle. Not to be missed, and in
our deli now.
New Zealand Sau=
vignon
Blanc
In the last couple of weeks I’ve had occa=
sion
to try quite a few of these – all in the course of duty of course (erhem…)
including quite a number from the 2010 vintage. I reached three conclusions=
:
Find the style(s) you like
You get what you pay for
2010 was a stonkingly good vintage
The style of Marlborough
Sauvignon Blanc has changed considerably since I started buying the stuff
(commercially) 14 years ago. At that time the predominant (good)
characteristics were the wine’s crisp refreshing gooseberry flavours and of
course its abundant perfume. Over time a riper and more tropical-fruit driv=
en
style evolved. And over more recent years, the forward-fruit approach has
abandoned by some in favour of producing a more food-friendly, rounded and
complex wine, through the use of oak, and Semillon in particular, with litt=
le
if any residual sugar.
Today just about every sty=
le
is available, and a lot of it is a matter of taste. Beyond fruit flavours s=
uch
as gooseberry, citrus, guava, passionfruit, mango, melon, even pineapple,
expect to find capsicum, tomato leaf, sweaty armpits, cat’s pee, asparagus.=
And
minerality. Please, minerality.
Whether you like your “Sav=
vy”
clean or funky, rich & ripe or dry and austere, there is a very clear l=
ink
between price and quality in terms of length, flavour concentration, and
complexity. By all means enjoy a c=
heap
quaffing SB – whatever is on “special” at Cold Storage for example – but do=
n’t
imagine that this will linger in your memory in the way that Villa Maria Ce=
llar
Selection or Reserve wines, Wither Hills, or Palliser do. VM is renowned in
Marlborough for running the risk of harvesting late, in order to capture th=
ose
lovely ripe summery fruit flavours. Palliser also tend to this style, possi=
bly
because of the Martinborough climate as well as winemaker Alan Johnson’s st=
yle.
Both Wither Hills and The Ned probably lean to a greener style. And soon we
will have a new wine from Brent Marris (of the Ned) in his Kings’ Series wi=
nes.
VM But more of that next month.
Villa Maria Tasting
Every year Ian Clark, long-standing marke=
ting
and export guru at Villa, organizes a tasting for some of the wine press. T=
his
really stems from letting Michael Cooper taste for his annual book, but oth=
ers
now gather for this event. And I was luck enough to be invited to join the
lunch and the tasting. There were more wines to taste than I can possibly do
justice to here but here are some highlights from the whites.
Marlborough enjoyed a love=
ly
Indian Summer which compensated for a relatively cool summer to produce
outstanding flavours – with a lot of passionfruit for (late-harvesting) Vil=
la’s
Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc. The Cellar Selection is tighter with more lime,
and a more focused concentrated wine. More complexity too – with some nettl=
e and
capsicum. I tasted Reserve or Sing=
le
Vineyard SBs from Clifford Bay, Wairau Valley, Graham, Taylors’ Pass and
Southern Clays. Wairau Valley ws my favourite but. I also very much liked t=
he
Single Vineyard Graham which had more savoury characters and would in my
opinion be the best food wine of these.
I am a bit of a Viognier f=
an
and watch NZ’s efforts with this varietal with interest. VM has done really
well with this varietal – I liked both the Private Bin which is from the “E=
ast
Coast” and the Cellar Selection. The former was round and rich with lovely
peach flavours, and the CS creamier, with more mouthfeel, weight and comple=
xity
– nutmeg and honeysuckle with apricot. A nice break from the binary decision
between aromatics and Chardonnay. And really good for Asian food.
I also tasted a first – th=
e CS
Arneis from Hawkes Bay. OK I wouldn’t know an Arneis if it jumped out and b=
it
me, but this had nice green apple flavours, and I’ll be on the lookout for =
more
examples of this Italian grape variety in the future. A good dry and less
fruit-driven alternative to SB with seafood.
Chardonnay, chardonnay,
chardonnay. Fun to taste from Marlborough, Auckland (yes!), Hawkes’ Bay, an=
d of
course I’m very familiar with Otago in the form of Felton Road, Pegasus Bay=
from
Canterbury and Palliser from Martinborough. There seem to be pronounced
regional characteristics for Chardonnay in NZ. The fruit gets brighter and =
more
forward as you head South. Most popular is probably Marlboough Chardy, but
personally I love the grapefruit, fig and melon of the North Island (especi=
ally
Hawkes Bay) in preference to the more stonefruit and lime characters of the
South. In this tasting my faves were the Hawkes Bay Reserve Chardonnay and =
the
Keltern Single Vineyard from 09.
All the Pinots I tasted fr=
om
09 were good - with a tendency towards dark berry and black cherry flavours=
. My
stand-out for a special occasion would be the Single Vineyard Seddon which =
had
a superbly silky mouthfeel,with layers of flavour – fruit, violets, forest =
floor.
Absolutely Delish.
Charlotte Read from Villa will be here in
mid-October. I’ll give details of an event around the weekend of 16/17=
th
October next time.
Ata Rangi and Shadowfax are our wineries =
of
the month in September – here’s a reminder of the special pricing on their
superb wines. Both got accolades in the Wine Magazine I read on the way home
this weekend – I will post the articles on the noticeboard in the Deli.
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 08
Normal Retail Price $79 -
SPECIAL PRICE $69/bottle
Ata Rangi Craighall Chardonnay 08<=
/b>.&=
nbsp;
Normal Retail Price $59.50 -
SPECIAL PRICE $48/bottle
Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir 08
Normal Retail Price $40.50 – SPECIAL
PRICE $32.50/bottle
Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir 08 – Half
Bottles 375ml
Normal Retail Price $23 – SPECIAL
PRICE $19/half bottle
Shadowfax Chardonnay
Normal price $44.50/bottle – SPECIAL
PRICE $36/bottle
Shadowfax Landscape Shiraz 05<=
span
lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>
Normal retail price $45 - SPECIAL
PRICE $36/bottle
These prices st=
rictly
while stocks last. Free delivery f=
or all
orders of one case (12 bottles) or more.
HOW TO ORDER
call 6464 9909 and ask for Audrey or Estee
or drop by our Deli & Wine Café in VivoCity (Tel 6463 5296)
em=
ail us
on o=
rders@thecellardoor.com.sg
vi=
sit our
website w=
ww.thecellardoor.com.sg&n=
bsp;